18 Jun 2021, 10:43
Does anyone know the torque spec for the transmission filter bolts? My workshop manual doesn't mention replacing the filter at all.
VIN No. 1867
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18 Jun 2021, 10:43
Does anyone know the torque spec for the transmission filter bolts? My workshop manual doesn't mention replacing the filter at all.
18 Jun 2021, 11:00
In the 60/ 70/80s torque wrenchs were mainly used on critical things like head nuts, wheel hub nuts etc.
Mostly it is down to "feel" by the mechanic. If you are using say an 8' spanner.....you strike a happy medium between leaving it too loose and snapping it off!..... You will be OK. Nowadays everything is torqued up.....my new MG has double pen marks. on every single nut! Once where it was torqued up on assembly.....and later as it was double checked! Having said that, I'm sure someone will have a figure!......
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+ Skoda Yetil 4X4. Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!. 1970 Jago Jeep. DOC Club Historian
19 Jun 2021, 14:59
(18 Jun 2021, 11:00)Chris P Wrote: In the 60/ 70/80s torque wrenchs were mainly used on critical things like head nuts, wheel hub nuts etc. My 70's Ford LTD has a specific torque for the transmission filter, so I was expecting the DeLorean to have one, especially as it would be very easy to overtighten. I've been gentle with it (<10 ft lbs).
19 Jun 2021, 17:17
The fill plug on the final drive unit and the sump plug on both the transmission and engine use the same 8mm square, but annoyingly, the drain plug on the final drive unit is slightly smaller. I'm guessing 7mm by eyeballing it, unless anyone knows?
03 Jul 2021, 16:05
Headlining now a matching set.
03 Jul 2021, 23:53
(19 Jun 2021, 17:17)Justwatching Wrote: The fill plug on the final drive unit and the sump plug on both the transmission and engine use the same 8mm square, but annoyingly, the drain plug on the final drive unit is slightly smaller. I'm guessing 7mm by eyeballing it, unless anyone knows? I tend to use the square inside of a door handle with a spanner on it!!
Richard Hanlon
Derbyshire DOC 393 1981 DMC-12 VIN 06126
04 Jul 2021, 09:17
I'm just glad to see you've got your sunvisors on the correct way around now. (awaits people throwing vegetable bits up on to the stage around him)
Rissy
(Forum Member 288) (DOC Member 663) May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX" Grey, Flapped, Black Chassis: #1073 Engine: #2839 Main Car(s): 2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue 2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
05 Jul 2021, 20:24
(03 Jul 2021, 23:53)Rich Hanlon Wrote: I tend to use the square inside of a door handle with a spanner on it!! Took me while to figure out what you meant there. That's a genius bit of lateral thinking! (04 Jul 2021, 09:17)Rissy Wrote: I'm just glad to see you've got your sunvisors on the correct way around now. (awaits people throwing vegetable bits up on to the stage around him) The darker set was tagged "driver" and "passenger" but it contradicted the orientation of the sun visors installed, so I wasn't sure which way was correct. So, I got it right?
06 Jul 2021, 11:57
(05 Jul 2021, 20:24)Justwatching Wrote:(03 Jul 2021, 23:53)Rich Hanlon Wrote: I tend to use the square inside of a door handle with a spanner on it!! Well. That’s why I talked about people throwing vegetables at the stage floor when I’m standing there suggesting your are correct now. It’s an age old argument where people seem to have differing opinions on orientation. As far as I’m concerned, yours are now the sane as mine, and correct. You also fold them backwards, like me, and like you do for pretty much every car out there. When folded back, the felt should be visible to match your headliner. The visors are also slightly shape formed to fit snuggly to the same shape form as your headliners in that orientation (and the contour of the windscreen glass when folded all the way forwards). So in my opinion, that is correct. The only problem with that orientation is the sun bleaching of the felt when you fold them down to protect your eyes. My solution: keep them folded back as much as you can. I think it’s the bleaching issue which prompted (some) people (including the factory workers in some cases) to swap the sides over so that the felt faces you when folded down. Doing so of course means that they don’t fold up nicely next to your headliner like that. They hang down and look unfitted in my opinion. Not nice. In my opinion. People’s solution to that then, is to fold them forwards, not backwards. I guess it comes down to personal choice. Disagreements in orientation (at least with me), is normally in jest and not serious. I’m well known with some people in the club for getting into the visor arguments when I see them the correct and incorrect way around.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288) (DOC Member 663) May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX" Grey, Flapped, Black Chassis: #1073 Engine: #2839 Main Car(s): 2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue 2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
17 Jul 2021, 11:03
The square bar didn't quite work. The final drive plug clearly hasn't been removed since it left the factory and was so stuck it actually twisted the bar. I ended up grinding some material off the 8mm square drive I purchased from DeLoreanGo to make it fit. With a long bar attached for leverage, it broke it free no problem. Plus the threads were left intact - Bonus!
17 Jul 2021, 20:52
Transmission fluid and filter changed and rebuilt governor computer installed. It drives much better (i.e. not holding onto gears), but it's still misbehaving. It's actually quite erratic. Transmission appears to slip in second gear, but only sometimes. I don't understand it. It climbed a long and steep hill with no slip at all, but when I tried accelerating from 30 MPH to 50 MPH on flat road, it slipped big time. I have to either back right off or hoof it harder to get it out of the slip. Also seems to have 'episodes' of shifting up and down repeatedly when rolling down after hard acceleration.
Help!
18 Jul 2021, 06:35
There are two red electrical plugs in the engine bay....one used on an auto and one for the manual......sometimes they are incorrectly fitted.....try using the other one........
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+ Skoda Yetil 4X4. Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!. 1970 Jago Jeep. DOC Club Historian
19 Jul 2021, 11:48
I have found that the amount of ATF in the gearbox needs to be exact or it will cause slipping and such.
The level (measure on the dip stick when hot) has to be spot on (not an easy task sometimes) or it will misbehave. Stu
DOC 116
VIN 6237
21 Jul 2021, 16:51
(19 Jul 2021, 11:48)Stuart Rees Wrote: I have found that the amount of ATF in the gearbox needs to be exact or it will cause slipping and such. Yeah, I think I've over filled it. I know the final reading must be taken hot with the engine running, but to give me a rough starting point, where does yours read when cold and engine off?
04 Aug 2021, 21:12
After much adding and subtracting fluid, the transmission is no better off. I discovered something on my last test run though. The usual thing happened - as I'm accelerating, sudden loss of drive and revs shoot up. I manually selected 2nd and it re-engaged. Around 45 MPH, I put it back into drive where immediately took 3rd and I continued my acceleration up to 60 MPH without further incident. So, perhaps it's not slipping but rather failing to engage 3rd after disengaging 2nd? Would that suggest shift solenoid? Governor computer still suspect after rebuild? Something else? Thoughts/theories welcome.
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